Instruction video for building a shamanic drum part 1 text

You can use this text as support when making your own shamanic drum

In this video 2 ways are explained to stretch your skin onto the frame.

The first is double folded with a hairless skin. For the hairy skins this is the way to do it to make sure the hide does not tear.

In drum 2 the cord is threaded through once and you can see the loop sitting nicely

Drum 3 is super thin, this one also needs to be laced like drum 1.

Both methods are explained.

1:56 Let’s get started

You need a hammer and a 3 mm punch because the cord is 3 mm.

2:38

Fold the skin into quarters as a base.

You punch a hole in it and continue until there are holes in 2 places. You punch a hole 1 cm from the edge.

Place 2 holes on top of each other for symmetry. The base for your holes and then you can make holes at the same height.

4:08

The most commonly used way to make a drum is with 16 holes. This method comes from the Native Americans. If you want to use this method you need to add 3 holes, starting from the base holes. So each quarter of a skin has 4 holes and 4 times 4 is 16 holes in a skin.

At Sjamaan we make 20 holes in a skin. The advantage is that the tension is better distributed.

Another advantage is that you have a choice when making a handle in 4 times 5 or 5 times 4. With the latter you have a traditional cross as the back, or a choice of 5 lines like the example drum (5:31)

The example follows the original traditional Native American method with 16 holes.

6:45

For the lacing it is important that you put two in between. So between the 2 holes already made, 2 more go in between.

7:27

Very important is that when lacing you skip the 2. The base holes are important.

The example of the lacing.

Don’t look at the lacing yet but only at the holes between the numbers. The extra 2 holes are not mentioned on the lacing.

8:52

It is best to briefly melt the end of the cord to make a good needle.

9:05

The trick is to always pierce the skin from above. This brings extra strength to the skin. Especially with thin skins this is very important. If you don’t do this, you are guaranteed to tear them.

The skin can still tear a little, just look at this drum.

10:22

Pull the cord tight. The tighter you pull, the better the skin will fit onto the frame. If you don’t pull it tight, you will get loops. At 10:54 you can see the loops.

At the end make a small knot. Knot over and under. Pull tight, cut off and tuck away under the skin. This method suits the thin skins.

The skin curls up a little from the tightening which makes it extra sturdy.

12:10

The other method with a horse hide.

This hide fits almost to the top with the double folded hide. And then you get a beautiful finish.

With a larger frame the hide covers the frame less, but that is also beautiful.

Up to a maximum of 45 cm the skin can be 50 cm. Double folding is then more difficult but it can be done in the same way as the hairless skin. By first threading the cord through and not folding the skin double.

13:50

We essentially do the same with punching the holes. Fold the skin in half and then punch 4 holes.

We follow the old Native American method. 3 spaces between the base holes. Go all the way around. 3 holes in between everywhere so you end up with 16 holes.

15:05

The next step is to punch a second hole with a finger in between. This is not to overdo it but you will see why shortly. Two holes next to each other.

This method will create loops in a different way. This is what the loops will look like. (16:00)

This is a 40 ring and a 50 skin

You fold the hide double and mark it so you have 4 holes. A finger next to the hole, mark it and punch it.

17:20

Make a needle from the cord by burning the end.

17:40

From bottom to top 1, down at 2, around the back up to 3, with the top one down through 4, around the back up again.

32
41

Continue to the left to the next set of four.

When you pull it tight you can see it looks like this. These are the loops on which you will do your bindings later. The skin folds over beautifully double.

18:30

We place the ring in when you have gone all the way around. You pull the cord neatly into place and tie a knot in it. These are the loops on which you will lace later.

Back to the drawing.

You start somewhere at loop 1, it doesn’t matter where. Say this is number 1, then you go to the other side to number 2. With 16 holes you go to the 8th hole, counted from 1, directly opposite.

You can already see it, the cord goes back and forth the whole time. You end up next to the cord where you started, so next to number 1.

This is just lacing, you don’t need to put any tension on it yet.

20:29

When you have gone around you start applying tension. You made a small knot at 1. You pull a little at 2 so some tension comes on, pull at 3, at 4 and so you slowly apply tension to the drum.

How much tension then? We have been making drums for 25 years and have learned a lot. Pulling tight three times is a good method, going around three times is sufficient. Because the skin also shrinks as it dries.

When you press on the cord and feel little resistance you are doing well. When the skin dries there will be good tension on it.

22:20.

You tie a small knot in it. With the other end of the cord you go to the other side. A good tip is to decide for yourself whether you go from bottom to top or the other way around. It doesn’t matter how you do it as long as you are consistent. You skip two holes and through the loop back to the other side. The two extra holes you punched to make the skin stronger you always skip.

The other method is easier because then you go from loop to loop.

23:45

There is still a lot of cord left to make the handle.

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